In the world of high-end watches, 2023 is a particularly good year as the famous biennial Only Watch auction will take place again in Geneva this November. Initiated by Luc Pettavino to benefit the Monegasque Association against Muscular Dystrophy in 2005 and held under the patronage of Prince Albert II of Monaco, this auction brings together a number of manufacturers. The industry’s most prestigious manufacturers as well as some of the most sought-after independent watchmakers dedicate their spectacular pieces to high results.

This year, up to 62 brands will participate, each giving away unique watches for sale. Their statement pieces will be presented by Christie’s, each serving as a showcase of pioneering watchmaking techniques and meticulous workmanship.

The watch is Takashi Murakami Tourbillon only
Among the participants are Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Bulgari, Breguet, Hublot, Chopard, Carl F. Bucherer, Montblanc, TAG Heuer, Tudor and Zenith.

Grönefeld 1941 Principia Mandala
That group was joined by an elite group of independent watchmakers, such as FP Journe, Grönefeld, Moritz Grossmann, Speake Marin, Sylvain Pinaud and Kari Voutilainen, to name just a few.

Andersen Genève’s Dancing Time
One highlight among the many products in the upcoming sale is in the Andersen Genève Jump Hour . The complexity of the jumping hours makes reading the time an interesting experience, because at exactly 59 minutes and 59 seconds, the digital display advances step by step. The challenge for the watchmaker lies not only in accelerating the relatively heavy disc mechanism but also in slowing it down precisely.

One of the finest realizations of this popular complication is offered by the unique work of Svend Andersen in this year’s Only Watch auction. The Jumping Hours by the independent Danish watchmaker, a founding member of the prestigious Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), is presented in a platinum case with a rose gold crown and unique dial. Crafted from pure jade. It is cut to a thickness of just 0.4mm and has a perfectly, perfectly flat finish.

At its thinnest point, above the hour wheel at 12 o’clock, the watch face is only 0.15 mm thick. The impression is mesmerizing. Although the dial appears jet black from a distance, closer inspection reveals small inclusions of this gem, which is considered very difficult to work with. In order not to distract from its natural beauty, the watch only displays hours and minutes. The Geneva-based independent watchmaker in the first hour has a special relationship with Only Watch, because he participated in the first edition in 2005. His unique work then was the first work to be auctioned for Only Watch.

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