Skeleton watches are very popular among collectors because they offer a continuous sight of the ongoing time. In black, they are even more intense and mysterious. Here is the absolute proof.
Skeleton watch: Tempus fugit
Skeletonized watch movements have bridges and a base plate that is machined open to let light through to reveal the components. These watches were created through the invention of the Lépine movement at the end of the 18th century. Craftsmen and buyers alike appreciated this approach. This technique was quickly reused by Val de Travers watchmakers in Switzerland. They used “bocfil” saws to cut various fixed parts of the movement and showed themselves to be very innovative in attracting a clientele that included many Chinese buyers in the early 19th century.
This technique then caters to delicate movements and evening watches. Many pocket watches, called “couteaux” due to their incredible thinness, contain these delicate movements, which brings these models back to the origins of their name. Because the French word for watch, “montre,” comes from the Old French “monstrance,” a word that expressed the idea of expression. Admittedly, in the early history of chronometric instruments, the goal was not to have precise time but to have a kinematic gem that could assert its owner’s authority by the presence of It. Ever since the invention of these objects, their owners have loved to show off their elaborate movements, a testament to their wealth.
Skeletonized watches were born to allow enthusiasts to continue to showcase the workings of their watches without endangering the entire movement. Then watchmakers quickly invented a new way to highlight their work: remove the dial and case back and cut wide panels into the material to create a spider-like structure, where moving parts appear to be suspended.
Since the mid-19th century, this technique has remained completely unchanged. The saw was simply replaced by a giant electric discharger, but the finishing work was still entrusted to talented and patient artisans. Filing here, polishing there, engraving where they see fit, then assembling these intricate parts to create a structure whose transparency lends itself to the watches it is equipped with. this kind of movement a kind of vitality, contrary to the name of the skeleton with which it is given. Because the idea of a skeleton conveys something lifeless and sad, while a watch crafted to the maximum exudes light, the joy of life, the intoxication of emptiness. . Below is a selection of these watches, with their modern and geometric designs, celebrating the work of watchmakers and the discerning taste of those who have chosen them for the sublimity of their hands. Exquisite craftsmanship.
Skeleton, BACK TO BLACK
Cartier –Santos-Dumont Squelette XL version
In this version, the Santos-Dumont Skeleton XL watch demonstrates that a modernized openwork celebrates the mechanism and transforms a simple movement into a kinetic engraving. The production caliber 9612 MC with hand-wound winding is cut to the maximum and carefully designed so that the Roman numerals XII, III, VI and IX can be part of the construction. Finished and assembled by hand at the factory located in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. Most of the 138 components can be seen through the crystal dial and sapphire case back of this 28.6 mm, 3.97 mm thick model, which has a tuning group that vibrates at a frequency of 4 Hertz (28,800 revolutions). /hour).
This individually numbered model has a power reserve of 72 hours once fully wound. To protect it from splashes of water and dust, it is encased in an airtight titanium case (3 bars) with black ADLC coating, a treatment made from diamond-like amorphous carbon that can Super high erosion resistance. Both timeless and virtually indestructible, this timepiece where every detail matters has a crown decorated with faceted black spinel and is worn on an alligator leather strap fastened with double opening clasp – not titanium but gray gold, also coated with ADLC.
FRANK’S WATCH
Collection of Santos de Cartier
Corum Golden Bridge 43 mm Dubail round version
This baguette calibre was made by Vincent Calabrese after he saw the decorative carriage clocks from Jaeger LeCoultre. Maison Corum offers a pure wonder, a miniature carving contained in a sapphire case. This elegant 43mm black PVD coated titanium piece is only available in 10 exclusive pieces for Dubail, the Parisian family house specialised in high watchmaking and high jewellery.
In this setup, the manual winding in-line movement is a minimalist masterpiece that nothing disrupts. To avoid being captivated by the surrounding void, the Maison Corum has chosen to set up a tubular structure inspired by suspension bridges around this kinetic jewel.
In this configuration, the manually wound in-line movement is a minimalist monument that nothing can disturb. To keep the eye from being drawn to the surrounding void, Corum chose to create a tubular structure inspired by suspension bridges around this kinetic gem.
The name of this piece reflects its inspiration, worn here on a black alligator strap. Extremely elegant, this exquisite wonder continues the tradition of the finest wristwatches. Enthusiasts will take them to parties where its transparency and original baguette movement will certainly make it a standout.
The technical specifications of the baguette caliber on another Golden Bridge
The Golden Bridge collection of Corum
Franck Muller – Curvex 7 Days Power Reserve Skeleton Dubail Edition
Black is fashionable for watches designed for collectors in their somewhat stuffy parties. Here, the color and barrel shape, characteristic of the item, will make this model stand out, even hidden under a shirt sleeve. The watch measures generously at 39.6 mm x 55.4 mm. This voluptuous model perfectly hugs the curves of the wrist. Its carbon case and caliber, which operates fully open, are so light you’ll forget it’s even there.
The very Parisian Maison Dubail enjoys the exclusivity of this watch, limited to only 20 pieces. Today, as we like to say, the manual-winding, open-caliber movement, equipped with a 7-day power reserve, has a curved design reminiscent of the circular markings left by water drops. on the lake leaves and gives the whole a solid look. sensuality. Watchmakers create a contrast that will appeal to collectors, between the fixed parts coated in black and the bridges, both open and moving, with a silver metallic finish. Modern and dynamic, this watch is worn on a black alligator strap to match the rest of this exceptional timepiece, sure to attract the attention of night owls who have enough means to realize their ambitions.
