Among the many stunning new introductions from Vacheron Constantin at this year’s Watches and Wonders Show, the Retrograde Patrimony scores high in terms of color. The platinum watch, sold exclusively at the brand’s boutiques, comes with a stunning sunburst salmon dial, a color scheme that has left its mark on high-end watchmaking.
Vacheron Constantin has used dials of this color since the 1940s. Here, it provides a subtle background for the two retrograde day and date indicators of the same name. The blue hands create an interesting contrast on the very minimalist dial, on which the hours and minutes are indicated by 18K white gold hands. In classic 1950s style, the dial back is subtly curved to match the shape of the domed dial with intense reflections. The circular peripheral minute track is also inspired by this era in a revisited version.
At the heart of this 42.5mm watch is the self-winding caliber 2460 R31R7/3, which combines 276 components in a miniature mechanical model, measuring just 5.7mm thick. Operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, it is equipped with a 22K gold open working oscillating weight with a design inspired by the factory’s Malta cross emblem. This mechanism provides a power reserve of approximately 40 hours.
In the grand tradition of in-house movements, the bridges are finished with hand-polished corners. Straight graining, which involves perfectly smoothing the edges of the part, is also done by hand, while the screws are meticulously polished. The obverse has circular graining on both sides, while the bridges are decorated on the reverse with a Côtes de Genève motif. Like all Vacheron Constantin movements, it carries the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva certification.
